Machu Picchu & Cusco, Peru

Arrived in Cusco, we decide to finish Latin America in style with a 5-day trek.



The Inca trail is indeed very expensive (around 500$ per person) because it restricts to 200 the number of people per day walking it.

Like we did in Torres del Paine, we negotiate a "full autonomy" format, implying that we carry our tent and food for the five days and only use the guide services.

This multi day trek called Salkantay (6271m a.s.l.) is a well-known alternative to the classic Inca trail.

Day1: We are picked up early morning by a van and head to the start place. At the start we can see that most of the people (actually all of them) only carry a day pack; the rest is on donkeys together with the food to be prepared and cooked by the guide.
Beautiful sun. Blue sky. But heavy backpack. Our camelbacks are full. We can go. Top.


The first day is a long up-hill only trek on single trails, dirt roads, and through fields. Landscape is typical from Swiss Alps but the higher we go the more rocky it starts to be and the more exhausting it is...hem bags' weight does not help ;)
 
Somehow we have more loads than for Torres del Paine... less planning and more fancy food... Francois even has two big corns waiting to be boiled and 1l yoghurt; not sure how optimal are these latter ones?
  
The end of Day 1 exhausts Francois with his overloaded 18kg bag. The muscles are burning on the last 2km..
We arrive at the base camp at 3900m and put our tent inside a big shelter made of plastic blue cover. At night temperature can drop up to -10c.
 




We are very happy to get rid of some kilos by eating the heaviest food as well as other useless items taken for nothing.

We go to bed early (21-22:00) as Day 2 is longer, higher and steeper than Day 1, totalling 22km compared to the 18km of Day 1.

Day2:With a lighter backpack (3kg less), we start trekking early morning at 7am.
 

Anecdote: After 30min walk up-hill, Weronika realises that her sunglasses are not in her pocket anymore... hem..
So we return without our big backpacks though, hoping to find the glasses as close as possible from where we started walking back.
Bad luck or good luck, we find the glasses just 200m after the base camp after a 4-eye desperate search. So happy though.. For once it is happy end.
After losing 2x30min, we continue trekking up-hill.

The last bit is a long steep straight trail until the top. After the top it is only down-hill to the second base camp.  

The oxygen is rare and we have to break very frequently. Mountain landscapes are terrific and weather is so much prone to photography.
 




We finally reach the village where we can fit our tent on the first floor thereby avoiding rain and humidity... youpiii !

Day3:The third day, we woke up early and walk on the flat for 15km along a dirt road; we must say this part felt like relaxing after the two first demanding days, although not as much exciting.


The mountains behind are where we come from; the small village you can see is where our base camp was located.

 
The highlight of the third day is in the afternoon thermal natural hot springs where we are able to chill out and treat our muscles: what a pleasure! Again the view from the pools is amazing.



Day4:In the morning, we have the option to do some "zip lining" adding more sensations and adrenaline to our hiking day.
  

The challenging up-side down position is called "Spiderman" position !




The afternoon of the fourth day is a 15km trek along a railway and large river, between flat and slightly up-hill. This is the last long trekking day heading to Machu Picchu.




It is raining and we hope that our next and final day visiting Machu Picchu will be better.


We stop quite early in the afternoon at the checkpoint near a bridge in an empty municipal camping.

To spend the time, we are enjoying a well-deserved beer with some crisps on the terrasse of a small café with view on the noisy river (or shall I rather say a big torrent).


Day5:The last and fifth day is dedicated to the final ascension and visiting the Machu Picchu ruins.
At 5am we meet at the checkpoint our trekking buddies who slept at the hotel in Aqua Caliente while we were camping.
Then it is 2000 stairs to climb feasible in about one hour. After lots of sweat, we reach Machu Picchu entrance in 36min (stopwatch on).




Anecdote: as read on forum, it is advised to take a spare tshirt in the bag and change at the top to feel dry. Very wise advice as my shirt was completely soared.
We visit Machu Picchu by being the first to enter in the mystic city. The view and the construction techniques are incredible.







Anecdote: Francois' wet shirt was hanging in the net of his day pack and unfortunately dropped somewhere in the city. We return and try to find it even by asking the numerous guards equipped with walkie-talkies... but nothing. Again a Kraffterie and a loss for Francois Krafft :(

We leave Machu Picchu with our camera and head full of souvenirs. We trek back to Hydro Electrica where we take a van to bring us back to Cusco. Here we go for a 6h journey through the Andean passes.

We arrive in Cusco late evening and we are knackered, but satisfied to finish in style the series of treks in Latin America.


Please note that the Salkantay trail celebration dinner on the picture below happens the next evening...ehhe hence fresher face... as well as clothes ;-)
  
 Flight Cusco - Lima - Quito 2774km, 6hrs

Arequipa, Peru

Arequipa is a beautiful city, we are both astonished by the amount of nice colonial buildings we found here. 
We arrive to the bus station at the ridiculous time of 4am, we get a cab and direct to the hostel found in a guide. Luckily the guy on the night shift is pleasant to let us in and share the sofa, blanket and some pillows to wait until the room gets free so we could take it.

It happens to be Francois birthday ;)))) it's 24th March!!!
We have a walk around the town to see the famous places like Plaza de Armas - the main square, and Nuns Monastery. Have some coffees and local dessert being queso helado - meaning cheese ice-cream.

We choose to do a mountain biking down-hill ride (45km) from the volcan Chachani 6075m however we didn't start at the top as the motorable road finishes at 4600m.
We were told that we will be grouped with a French couple, so imagine our faces when two guys jump into the van with fancy baseball caps, Ray-Bays, singlets and visible more than dozen tatoos! And they were of course hangover ;) Turned out to be fun Aussies with very good MTB skills, going down like torpedoes ;)

The experience was great! We started at c.4600m going down through some single tracks. We went off-road between high and chunky grass, rocks and sand. That was quite a technical ride for a beginner like Weronika. 


 
The Aussie guys went a bit crazy, hitting all the rocks with no mercy, no more than 5 min ride both of them had punctures! After a quick change of the inner tube, we continue and again within next 20 min both of them have punctures! Annoyingly there were no more spare inner tubes so if one of us have a puncture they will have to go into the car ;( so boys slowed down and got more delicate with their bikes.


Weronika has a BIG fall after miscalculating the 180 degree turn and hit the external edge of the road, the front wheel fall into the crack of the road and stops there. She falls through the front of the bike and lands on a ground like a cat, on all four....luckily!!! Nothing happened! 
While that Francois is speeding down, chasing the wind, doesn't turn around for about 3km....so he missed all the big drama. Snif Snif...

Another day we go for a free guided tour around the town. It is a superb 2hrs walk around Arequipa centre. We learn a lot about the Peruvian and Arequipian culture and Incas.




We pass Nuns Monastery (2nd daughter was sent there by the parents as a good profession and gift to society), many colleges and universities grounds, church that linked catholic and Inkas symbols and beliefs. We learn about various Peruvian food like: kiwicha, maca, dry patatoes, lama/alpaca (no saturated fat), protein rich quinoa.

We also go to the lama/alpaca museum to see the process of making products from alpaca wool. 






PS: The black alpaca looks like rasta ;) 




We have the chance to see the real dead body of a guy that got frozen in the mountains at 4000m...looks scary but so real.




Anecdote: We learnt that animals lamas were originally called Turpa however Spanish were asking the locals "what are their names?", "como se llama?" And hence they started confusing the response with the word llama! ("Llama" means "name" in Spanish).
Silly Spaniards!


Anecdote: We were still desperately trying to fix our recently acquired Sony Vaio that got damaged by a bloke in a coach. He was passing by the aisle and hit the disc drive when it was out, very clumsy and careless. Once we arrived to Copacabana, Bolivia, Francois went to a computer store with that guy to ask for fixing costs, impossible to assess apparently. We got from the guy c.30 USD as a damage compensation, surely it will be more.
 

Well, we went to a computer area in Arequipa and after spending too much time trying to figure out the place to fix it we got to know that international insurance for Sony bought in Chile doesn't work outside Chile! Thanks for mentioning that at the purchase! 
So we will have to fix it at own cost ;( The new drive needs to be changed, cost c.100 USD and impossible to do it now, need to order special part. We let it go for now, will worry maybe in AU or NZ.

Anecdote: There is an ongoing for a week already a strike of the miners, they are blocking many roads in Peru. The conflict is about that the government want all the illegal miners to become legal by certifying themselves. The issue is that the company they work for will continue to be illegal, without the need to legalise them. So poor miners will incur costs for certification, will be taxed and won't get any benefits as employees as will continue to work for illegal companies. 

Only one coach company was leaving Arequipa by taking longer route, we took it to leave the place.

Coach Arequipa - Cusco 595km, 8hr
 

Isla del Sol, Bolivia

Copacabana has nothing to do with the sexy beach in Brasil with tons of beautifully shaped and sun kissed bodies... Copacabana in Bolivia is a lazy town on lake Titicaca with a couple of streets with tourist shops and restaurants. 




We arrived there I guess in low season as the town was a bit dead...the couple of nights we stayed here we were going to bed at 22 pm as there was nothing going on.









Well, we decided to have a boat trip to Isla del Sol, the island that in past was inhabited by Inkas!











We landed on the island and all we see there are donkeys, kids playing with balls on the coast and Bolivian women dressed up in their typical traditional outfits.

The life is very quiet and slow, feels like at the different pace...so we slowed down too.






























It's worth to mention that the lake lies at c. 3800m a.s.l., it is beautiful, the colour is deep blue and it's size is immense. Apparently it is five times bigger than Leman lake in Switzerland! That puts down a bit of Francois' ego, hihi. 




We have a walk to the ruins on the top of the hill - Sacred Rock, as the whole island is at 3800m then the hills are reaching about 4075m a.s.l. Trust me that again has the impact on our breathings! But all those past two weeks in Bolivia made us much more resistant and no more headache ;)

















 The Inkas ruins are interesting...

The Ceremonial Table, used for sacrifices  










The landscape let us discover Chinkana ruins, that are famous for its labyrinth. We however don't know for what purpose it was initially built.


My favourite is the Labyrinth, seen on one of the photos.





We had fun playing  with our new Nikon toy! ;)
the red dot on the photo is Weronika!






















The second day we had another go on the hills, but this time continuing hiking on the high altitude trail giving us hard time to breath: Calvario (3,977m), Kallamina (4,007m), Huancarani (3,885m), Inca Samana (3.957m), Chaycorpata (4,006m), Santa Barbara (3,904m), and Palla Khasa (3,954m)


Being with Francois there is no option for a relaxing walk. He either tries to convince me to make this 7km through the hills by trail running or as I happily said that we don't have trainers he proposed some push-ups.















Well, that I can do, little work out in eye-dropping scenery is worth a bit of my sweat ;)
 









Well deserved lunch with bottle of local red wine...
 watching the weekly shopping made by locals in Copacabana

 Inka stairs

Anecdote: while in the bus going to Copacabana a guy was passing the corridor and negligently hit our disc drive...! F**k he broke it! Being furious doesn't help, the guy apologised and offered to pay for the damage. On arrival to the town Francois went to a 'computer' shop and asked for fixing advice. Well impossible to assess before dismantling...So, the guy offered $30 as a compensation... Nice of him but it wont pay the damage. 
Our Sony Vaio is only 10 days old and already broken. We should have listen the advice from Guillaume and buy a basic laptop as it surely will be broken at the end of the trip.


Coach Copacabana - Arequipa 436km, 7hrs